Camping, walking and eating in the Lake District

Ullswater Lake DistrictWe love the Lake District at any time of year, but there are also some surprising places beyond the usual tourist areas.

 

Out of season, it can be hard to find campsites open in the Lakes, but you’ll find a few (and others around the country) in our readers-recommended winter camping feature. If you have a campervan or a make-do wheeled tent like our old Berlingo, you might also find a pub happy to let you park overnight.

So, here’s a miscellany of places to visit, places to eat and places to camp. Do add your recommendations at the end.


Camping in the Lake District

Often, the ideal camping trip is to find somewhere to camp for a few days and have enough to do (and enough places to eat) so that you don’t have to move the van or, when in a tent, use the car.

Croft campsiteThough not at all picturesque (more car park than anything else), The Croft at Hawkshead had lots to recommend it for a late winter camp. The toilet blocks are superb – warm, clean and well-equipped with shared facilities and four lovely private bathrooms (one even with a bath). There’s hook-up, a laundry and a daily delivery of milk and more. Best of all, though, the village of Hawkshead is just a two-minute walk across the main road.

The Quiet Site at Ullswater is open all year and even has its own pub with a roaring open fire. It’s a great place and we’ve done a video review of it, so you can see for yourself! Pods and hobbit holes to rent if you feel too chilly to camp.

Pier Cottage on Coniston  couldn’t be in a better spot – a small rounded spit of land that means most pitches are either straight onto the water or within a stone’s throw. It’s possibly one of the best-located lakeside sites, especially as there’s only room for a handful of caravans (mostly), motorhomes and campervans. There are tall hedges and trees for privacy.

Facilities are very basic – a single shower for men and one for women, one toilet for men and two for women, a couple of handbasins and no washing-up sinks. Each pitch has a tap, metered electricity and a TV point(!).
It’s nicely relaxed and laid-back, and exceptionally quiet. You’re a short walk along the lake edge to the Coniston boat launch where there’s a café plus boats and bikes for hire. You can also take ferries, the steam gondola and cruises from there. Within easy reach are Monk Coniston’s gardens and tree collection; the beautiful Tarn Hows; Coniston village; Grizedale Forest, and lots of stunning walks.

Pier Cottage on Coniston

Pier Cottage’s beach on Coniston. The steam gondola at rest nearby.

The site is open from March to November and costs around £20 a night. We loved it and will definitely be back, though booking ahead is essential and many people book the minute they leave. Some families have been returning for years and years.

We like the National Trust sites at Great Langdale, Low Wray and Wasdale Head. The Wheatsheaf (mentioned in the eating out section below) has a campsite, but we haven’t tried it yet. None of these is open in winter, however.

Have a look at our review of Mains Farm too. This lovely campsite is at Kirkoswald in the Eden Valley, which isn’t the Lake District, but it’s near enough!


Eating out in the Lake District

Steam Bistro ConistonSteam at Coniston is exceptional, and only a short walk up the road from the Pier Cottage campsite. It’s a bring-your-own restaurant with a lovely, busy atmosphere and outstanding food. Everything is local, fresh and delicious; the service is perfect and it’s good value with a two- and three-course set menu. A fabulous find.

Baba Ganoush KendalOh, and if you arrive or leave via Kendal, make a special stop for breakfast or lunch at Baba Ganoush. There’s a deli and busy café and, further down the alley (at the side of Beale’s), there’s the ‘canteen’ bistro. Delicious combinations of flavours, hearty soups, incredible sandwiches, burgers and all manner of things on toast, plus lovely service.

Hawkshead villageIn Hawkshead, there are four pubs to choose from, a few cafés and tea-rooms and the fabulous Honeypot food store. We ate at both the Queen’s Head and the King’s Arms and preferred the latter. The Queen’s is trying to be finer in its dining, but the prices aren’t always justified (£6.50 for a tasteless gateau, for example). There are some interesting dishes on its menu, though, and we’re glad we tried it. The King’s is more usual pub food but with  imagination and a lot of taste – very busy, very friendly. We discounted the Sun because of its giant TV screen and the Red Lion for its too standard looking menu. We’re happy to be put right!

In Penrith, we used to like the Dockray Hall, a pub with delicious food and a warm atmosphere. Sadly, our last visit ended with a hilarious £7 dessert that was so mean everyone in the room wanted to marvel at its smallness! Now, though, we’ve discovered the amazing Brunswick Yard Kitchen. It’s a salvage yard (think French brocante) that’s branched out into a wonderful café/restaurant, a wine shop with barrels to fill your own bottles, a grocery shop and a secondhand bookshop. Brilliant food and fascinating place.

Lowther Castle‘s courtyard setting for its café is lovely, and we liked the simple but interesting meaLowther Castle cafels on the small menu – lamb kofte with Greek salad and raita, a great platter of meat, cheese and chutneys, pan-fried salmon, chicken and ham pie with roasted vegetables…and some delicious cakes.

The Kirkstile Inn at Loweswater is pKirkstile Inn at Loweswaterossibly our favourite Lake District pub-restaurant. In fact, after ruling out the disappointing Mortal Man at Beckside (Greek starters) and the King’s Head at Thirlspot (basket meals), we drove quite a distance to get there. Lots of local produce, traditional with a twist, friendly and warm and very relaxing. Try to get a table in the main bar area or the large side room, and avoid the new-but-dreary galley and chilly ‘Barn’ areas. Fabulous beer too, by the way. We ate:

  • Cumbrian duck egg ~ coated in Cumberland sausage ~ herb breadcrumbs ~ caper, sun blushed tomato, shallot, coriander and lemon salsa
  • Slow roasted Lakeland lamb shoulder ~ marinated in rosemary, garlic, red wine and honey ~ buttered mash ~ pak choi ~ red wine and orange jus
  • Guinea fowl supreme ~ stuffed with Cumberland sausage and black pudding ~ wrapped in Woodall’s air dried ham ~ bubble and squeak ~ glazed carrots ~ brandy and Cumberland mustard sauce

Giant burger at the Wheatsheaf in Low LortonThe WheatsheafWe like the Wheatsheaf Inn at Low Lorton too. Just look at their towering burgers!Out the back, there’s a caravan park and a spacious site for tourers and tents. We haven’t checked out the facilities yet, but that’s something to look forward to. There’s also a village shop in the pub itself, selling essentials, plus local and homemade produce. (See the comment from a reader below).

And if you’re passing through Kendal, make sure you stop for lunch of breakfast at Baba Ganoush (the cafe rather than the foodshop up the alley). Very tasty, though it’s not the Middle Eastern cuisine you’d expect from the name.


Places to visit

Hawkshead has everything you need in a campsite-close village – a Co-op, newsagents, post office, more than enough Beatrix PotterneLake District landscapess to drive any child into tantrums, country clothing shops and gift places all tucked into a pretty jumble of streets and alleyways.

There are plenty of walks and cycle routes straight from the village because it’s close to Coniston, Windermere and Grizedale Forest. You can hop on a bus and get to either of the lakes in 10 minutes or so for more walks, more pubs, the inspirational Brantwood (home of John Ruskin) and other museums too.

We caught the bus to the head of Coniston and then walked the 1.5 miles to Brantwood (which used to have a nice cafe/restaurant in its stable block, but let us down on our last visit. Overpriced and poor quality). We then walked all the way back via the High Cross forestry commission track. There are some special deals for bus/Brantwood/ferry packages, by the way.

On day two, we caught the bus to Coniston village and walked the Coppermines track to the Old Man of Coniston. There were snow-bones on the mountains in the distance and patches of glorious sun. A fabulous weekend. The nearby Tarn Hows is a very picturesque picnic and walking spot, and we liked Monk Coniston‘s garden and tree collection too.

Lowther Castle, near Penrith – Lowther CastleThe 5th Earl was a character. As well as founding the AA, he got his lackeys to draw the family coat of arms on the courtyard floor in yellow chalk every morning. He also squandered the family money and so Lowther Castle became a ruin.

These days, though, it’s being brought back to life and the huge gardens are gradually reappearing after years of neglect (and a few tank manoeuvres). You can wander and explore and admire the views. There are woodland swings, some picturesque wooden cabins and a lovely café.

Our only gripe is that there’s not enough information on the history of the place (especially the Yellow Earl). We had to resort to Wikipedia over lunch. We’ll definitely be popping back every once in a while to see the progress.

Crummock WaterNear the Kirkstile Inn is Crummock Water – a lesser-spotted lake with dramatic views and a gentle waterside walk. You can do a circuit of the lake and end up back at the Kirkstile feeling you’ve earned your dinner.

Ullswater is the second biggest lake in the Lake District, so you can often find a spot all to yourself. Walk up to Aira Force from the lakeside or have a paddle on one of the shingle beaches.

Bassenthwaite is interesting because there are no towns or villages on its shore. Instead, you can walk in peace and quiet along the west shore. On the east, you can visit Mirehouse and St Bega’s church and there are woodland walks starting from the tea rooms and car park nearby.

Wastwater kayakingWastwater, over in the west, is a strikingly bleak place and great for kayaking.

Have a look at our article on camping and crafting in Cumbria (with an Eden Valley campsite thrown in!). If you’ve got a favourite Lake District campsite or Cumbrian restaurant, café or pub, do let us know.

 

 

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One Comment

  1. We have just returned from the Wheatsheaf at Low Lorton. We stayed 29 July to 5 August 2017. As well as a field for tourers/tents, there are around 20 statics, most privately owned. Most were unoccupied while we were the few people who were there were extremely friendly and went out of their way to make us feel welcome.

    The site is situated behind the pub, which serves the most wonderful food and makes dog’s as welcome as people, even to the extent of selling dog beer -non alcoholic of course!

    We stayed in our tent with electric hookup. The EHU pitches are really for caravans or mobile homes and are way too rough to pitch a tent on. However, between each pitch is a patch of grass, and although it was a snug fit, we were able to pitch out Vango Inspire 600 on the grass between two handstanding pitches.

    The grass is well maintained however it dips towards the hedge line which meant the foot of our air beds were significantly higher than the head. This wouldn’t be an issue with a smaller tent but as ours completely filled the space we had no choice but to pitch right up to the hedge.

    The site is very basic. Although the wash facilities are very clean there is only one shower in the ladies and it is hardly private. Just a glass cubicle at the end of the row of toilets with just a shower curtain to protect your privacy. This was not an issue for us though as we were the only campers on the field for 4 of the 7 days we were there. The men’s shower is a little more private, being situated in a small room at the end of the toilet block.

    Showers are on a meter which uses 40p but we did get 4 showers for one payment. There is also a washing machine and tumble dryer which are operated from the same meter. The instructions tell you that £3 will give a mixed load wash lasting 1 1/2 hours and £1 will give 40 minutes in the tumble dryer.

    The biggest downside for us was the long walk to the toilet block. We were on the first pitch on the field but is was still at least 200m (300 steps -we counted!) from our tent to the toilet. We were really pleased we had our portaloo for late night visits, especially as it rained heavily every night!

    Overall we were happy with this site, despite the lack of facilities, and would definitely stay again.

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