Camping, walking and eating in the Lake District

Ullswater Lake DistrictWe love the Lake District at any time of year, but autumn and winter are quieter and still beautiful. So, we thought we’d share a few favourite places. We’ll add to the list as we discover more, but most of all, we’d like to hear your recommendations so we can expand our Cumbrian horizons.

 

It can be hard to find campsites open in the Lakes out of season. But, if you ask nicely and have a drink or a meal, you might find a pub happy to let you park overnight. Of course that means you’ll need a campervan or a make-do wheeled tent like our old Berlingo. If you do have a vehicle, you could try Brit Stops too, it’s a simple scheme for free overnight stays at pubs, farmshops and more.

So, here’s a miscellany of places to visit, places to eat and places to camp. Do add your recommendations at the end.

Camping in the Lake District

Often, the aim of an out-of-season camping trip is to find somewhere we can camp for a few days and have enough to do (and enough places to eat) so that we don’t have to move the van or, when in a tent, use the car.

Croft campsiteThough not at all picturesque (more car park than anything else), The Croft at Hawkshead had lots to recommend it for a late winter camp. The toilet blocks are superb – warm, clean and well-equipped with shared facilities and four lovely private bathrooms (one even with a bath). There’s hook-up, a laundry and a daily delivery of milk and more. Best of all, though, the village of Hawkshead is just a two-minute walk across the main road.

The Quiet Site at Ullswater is open all year and even has its own pub with a roaring open fire. It’s a great place and we’ve done a video review of it, so you can see for yourself! Pods to rent if you feel too chilly to camp.

Pier Cottage on Coniston  couldn’t be in a better spot – a small rounded spit of land that means most pitches are either straight onto the water or within a stone’s throw. It’s possibly one of the best-located lakeside sites, especially as there’s only room for a handful of caravans (mostly), motorhomes and campervans. There are tall hedges and trees for privacy.

Facilities are very basic – a single shower for men and one for women, one toilet for men and two for women, a couple of handbasins and no washing-up sinks. Each pitch has a tap, metered electricity and a TV point(!).
It’s nicely relaxed and laid-back, and exceptionally quiet. You’re a short walk along the lake edge to the Coniston boat launch where there’s a café plus boats and bikes for hire. You can also take ferries, the steam gondola and cruises from there. Within easy reach are Monk Coniston’s gardens and tree collection; the beautiful Tarn Hows; Coniston village; Grizedale Forest, and lots of stunning walks.

Pier Cottage on Coniston

Pier Cottage’s beach on Coniston. The steam gondola at rest nearby.

The site is open from March to November and costs around £20 a night. We loved it and will definitely be back, though booking ahead is essential and many people book the minute they leave. Some families have been returning for years and years.

We like the National Trust sites at Great Langdale, Low Wray and Wasdale Head. The Wheatsheaf (mentioned in the eating out section below) has a campsite, but we haven’t tried it yet. None of these is open in winter, however.

Have a look at our review of Mains Farm too. This lovely campsite is at Kirkoswald in the Eden Valley, which isn’t the Lake District, but it’s near enough!


Eating out in the Lake District

Steam Bistro ConistonSteam at Coniston is exceptional, and only a short walk up the road from the Pier Cottage campsite. It’s a bring-your-own restaurant with a lovely, busy atmosphere and outstanding food. Everything is local, fresh and delicious; the service is perfect and it’s good value with a two- and three-course set menu. A fabulous find.

Baba Ganoush KendalOh, and if you arrive or leave via Kendal, make a special stop for breakfast or lunch at Baba Ganoush. There’s a deli and busy café and, further down the alley (at the side of Beale’s), there’s the ‘canteen’ bistro. Delicious combinations of flavours, hearty soups, incredible sandwiches, burgers and all manner of things on toast, plus lovely service.

Hawkshead villageIn Hawkshead, there are four pubs to choose from, a few cafés and tea-rooms and the fabulous Honeypot food store. We ate at both the Queen’s Head and the King’s Arms and preferred the latter. The Queen’s is trying to be finer in its dining, but the prices aren’t always justified (£6.50 for a tasteless gateau, for example). There are some interesting dishes on its menu, though, and we’re glad we tried it. The King’s is more usual pub food but with  imagination and a lot of taste – very busy, very friendly. We discounted the Sun because of its giant TV screen and the Red Lion for its too standard looking menu. We’re happy to be put right!

In Penrith, we used to like the Dockray Hall, a pub with delicious food and a warm atmosphere. Sadly, our last visit ended with a hilarious £7 dessert that was so mean everyone in the room wanted to marvel at its smallness!

Lowther Castle‘s courtyard setting for its café is lovely, and we liked the simple but interesting meaLowther Castle cafels on the small menu – lamb kofte with Greek salad and raita, a great platter of meat, cheese and chutneys, pan-fried salmon, chicken and ham pie with roasted vegetables…and some delicious cakes.

The Kirkstile Inn at Loweswater is pKirkstile Inn at Loweswaterossibly our favourite Lake District pub-restaurant. In fact, after ruling out the disappointing Mortal Man at Beckside (Greek starters) and the King’s Head at Thirlspot (basket meals), we drove quite a distance to get there. Lots of local produce, traditional with a twist, friendly and warm and very relaxing. Try to get a table in the main bar area or the large side room, and avoid the new-but-dreary galley and chilly ‘Barn’ areas. Fabulous beer too, by the way. They have a sister pub in Penrith that’s excellent – the Dockray Hall. We ate:

  • Cumbrian duck egg ~ coated in Cumberland sausage ~ herb breadcrumbs ~ caper, sun blushed tomato, shallot, coriander and lemon salsa
  • Slow roasted Lakeland lamb shoulder ~ marinated in rosemary, garlic, red wine and honey ~ buttered mash ~ pak choi ~ red wine and orange jus
  • Guinea fowl supreme ~ stuffed with Cumberland sausage and black pudding ~ wrapped in Woodall’s air dried ham ~ bubble and squeak ~ glazed carrots ~ brandy and Cumberland mustard sauce

Giant burger at the Wheatsheaf in Low LortonWe like the Wheatsheaf Inn at Low Lorton too. Just look at their towering burgers! And for unaffordable luxury (worth every penny), we’d recommend Miller Howe on Windermere – the best views and gourmet food.


Places to visit

Hawkshead has everything you need in a campsite-close village – a Co-op, newsagents, post office, more than enough Beatrix PotterneLake District landscapess to drive any child into tantrums, country clothing shops and gift places all tucked into a pretty jumble of streets and alleyways.

There are plenty of walks and cycle routes straight from the village because it’s close to Coniston, Windermere and Grizedale Forest. You can hop on a bus and get to either of the lakes in 10 minutes or so for more walks, more pubs, the inspirational Brantwood (home of John Ruskin) and other museums too.

We caught the bus to the head of Coniston and then walked the 1.5 miles to Brantwood (which used to have a nice cafe/restaurant in its stable block, but let us down on our last visit. Overpriced and poor quality). We then walked all the way back via the High Cross forestry commission track. There are some special deals for bus/Brantwood/ferry packages, by the way.

On day two, we caught the bus to Coniston village and walked the Coppermines track to the Old Man of Coniston. There were snow-bones on the mountains in the distance and patches of glorious sun. A fabulous weekend. The nearby Tarn Hows is a very picturesque picnic and walking spot, and we liked Monk Coniston‘s garden and tree collection too.

Lowther Castle, near Penrith – Lowther CastleThe 5th Earl was a character. As well as founding the AA, he got his lackeys to draw the family coat of arms on the courtyard floor in yellow chalk every morning. He also squandered the family money and so Lowther Castle became a ruin.

These days, though, it’s being brought back to life and the huge gardens are gradually reappearing after years of neglect (and a few tank manoeuvres). You can wander and explore and admire the views. There are woodland swings, some picturesque wooden cabins and a lovely café.

Our only gripe is that there’s not enough information on the history of the place (especially the Yellow Earl). We had to resort to Wikipedia over lunch. We’ll definitely be popping back every once in a while to see the progress.

Crummock WaterNear the Kirkstile Inn is Crummock Water – a lesser-spotted lake with dramatic views and a gentle waterside walk. You can do a circuit of the lake and end up back at the Kirkstile feeling you’ve earned your dinner.

Ullswater is the second biggest lake in the Lake District, so you can often find a spot all to yourself. Walk up to Aira Force from the lakeside or have a paddle on one of the shingle beaches.

Bassenthwaite is interesting because there are no towns or villages on its shore. Instead, you can walk in peace and quiet along the west shore. On the east, you can visit Mirehouse and St Bega’s church and there are woodland walks starting from the tea rooms and car park nearby.

Wastwater kayakingWastwater, over in the west, is a strikingly bleak place and great for kayaking.

If you’ve got a favourite Lake District campsite or Cumbrian restaurant, café or pub, do let us know.

 

 

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